Antigua

We took a bus from the lake to Antigua, which was a stunning journey through the beautiful countryside (roadworks forced us to take an alternative route). Upon arrival we were both a bit underwhelmed as Antigua is often touted as the number one tourist attraction in Guatemala and we were expecting it to be similar to San Cristobal but it's little more rough and ready. However, it didn't take us long to fall in love with the place - wondering round the cobbled streets soon reveals earthquake ruined churches, colonial Hispanic architecture and loads of great bars and restaurants.

Today we climbed Pocaya, one of the surrounding active volcanoes. It was a truly unforgettable experience. An early start (6am) was followed by a 1.5 hour uphill hike (steep in places, and they go deliberately quickly to try to get you to pay 50 quetzals for a horse!). Finally we found ourselves climbing over volcanic rock until we were literally within a few feet of flowing, molten larva. I really don't know of many countries which would allow you so close to something so dangerous - some people had to make a quick decent as their shoes were melting! In England, I seriously doubt they'd allow anyone within a 5 mile radius. Despite the risks (with included potential eruption and attack by bandits) it was well worth it.

We're at a point where we are not certain what to do next. Options include heading east to Rio Dulce and Livingston, heading north to Coban to visit Semuc Champey or jumping on a bus all the way to Tikal (Guatemala's flagship Mayan ruins). Due to time and money constraints it looks like we may have to opt for the latter. This would then give us time to go to Lamanai in Belize (reputed to be an amazing cruise up the river, spotting crocodiles and all sorts of bird life) and also to see a few of the Mexican places we missed out (Puebla, maybe Oaxaca and the Archaeological Museum in Mexico City, which is one of the best in the world). Ho hum, decisions, decisions...