San Ignacio & Caye Caulker, Belize

The road from Flores to the border was, like so many Guatemalan roads, "under construction" which means you're in for a slow, bumpy ride. The driver however, cleverly compensated for this by driving like a maniac wherever possible and so we arrived in San Ignacio in double quick time. The town is friendly and relaxed but the centre is rather small, with not a lot to do really. There are a number of tours you can go on in the surrounding area but most of these are very expensive and many of which require at least 4 people to sign up, which, in the low season, can mean putting your name down and waiting a few days (something we cannot afford to do). So we headed out the next morning to Belize City and caught a boat out to the island of Caye Caulker. It is absolutely scorching hot here, but with a cool breeze coming off the Caribbean ocean. The water is crystal clear and there is the second longest barrier reef in the world just off the coast so we'll head out snorkeling at some point. As it's the low season there's some crazy deals on accommodation (often half price) so we can get cable TV, air con, two double beds, 20 yards from the sea and still be within budget (just!). The Belizeans are surely the friendliest, most laid back people in existence, often spontaneously starting conversations with you in the street and volunteering information about themselves or offering assistance without a catch. It's also great to be in a country where we can speak the language. Photos coming later...

Tikal

Tikal was just awesome. It´s basically a fairly large Mayan site in the jungle about an hour and half north east of Flores. There´s about half a dozen large temples as well as lots of other ruined buildings. The jungle setting makes it even more spectacular. As it is the low season there wasn´t many tourists and we didn´t see anyone for ages as we trekked along the jungle paths between sites. We saw a couple of coatimundes (not really sure what these are, but see the picture) and lots of monkeys hanging and chattering in the trees. We also saw lots of colourful birds including woodpeckers and nesting parrots (fortunately no spiders, snakes, crocodiles or jaguars!) All in all it was a magical experience and we thoroughly enjoyed it. Belize tomorrow...

Flores

We decided, due to time constraints mainly, to take a bus all the way to Flores from Antigua. This was a hard decision as it means missing out Semuc Champey and Rio Dulce (although the bus did pass through Rio Dulce so we got to see the lake). The 11 hour journey sounds like a nightmare, but the Guatemalan landscape is so beautiful the hours seemed to pass fairly quickly. Another issue is money, travel in Guatemala is not as cheap as you might think, especially in the more touristy areas, Antigua being a prime example. There´s also the inevitable gringo tax - there´s never prices on anything in the shops so they just make up a price based on the assumption that you´re a rich American holiday maker. Whilst this can be frustrating you just have to accept it, especially if you don´t speak Spanish.

Flores is a tiny little town on small island located in a big lake and connected to the land by a thin peninsula. Check out an aerial view here. There´s not a lot to do here, but it is a good place to relax for a day or two. Hopefully we´re off to Tikal tomorrow, and then crossing the border to San Ignacio in Belize on Tuesday.

(Yes, I have just worked out how to make links in blogger...)

Antigua

We took a bus from the lake to Antigua, which was a stunning journey through the beautiful countryside (roadworks forced us to take an alternative route). Upon arrival we were both a bit underwhelmed as Antigua is often touted as the number one tourist attraction in Guatemala and we were expecting it to be similar to San Cristobal but it's little more rough and ready. However, it didn't take us long to fall in love with the place - wondering round the cobbled streets soon reveals earthquake ruined churches, colonial Hispanic architecture and loads of great bars and restaurants.

Today we climbed Pocaya, one of the surrounding active volcanoes. It was a truly unforgettable experience. An early start (6am) was followed by a 1.5 hour uphill hike (steep in places, and they go deliberately quickly to try to get you to pay 50 quetzals for a horse!). Finally we found ourselves climbing over volcanic rock until we were literally within a few feet of flowing, molten larva. I really don't know of many countries which would allow you so close to something so dangerous - some people had to make a quick decent as their shoes were melting! In England, I seriously doubt they'd allow anyone within a 5 mile radius. Despite the risks (with included potential eruption and attack by bandits) it was well worth it.

We're at a point where we are not certain what to do next. Options include heading east to Rio Dulce and Livingston, heading north to Coban to visit Semuc Champey or jumping on a bus all the way to Tikal (Guatemala's flagship Mayan ruins). Due to time and money constraints it looks like we may have to opt for the latter. This would then give us time to go to Lamanai in Belize (reputed to be an amazing cruise up the river, spotting crocodiles and all sorts of bird life) and also to see a few of the Mexican places we missed out (Puebla, maybe Oaxaca and the Archaeological Museum in Mexico City, which is one of the best in the world). Ho hum, decisions, decisions...

Lake Atitlan

We took a 3.5 hour bus journey to Panajachel, a small town on the edge of Lake Atitlan. The journey was eventful as they are using a recent massive mudslide as an excuse to widen the road and a Guatemalan traffic jam is chaos beyond belief. We spent much of the journey chatting to an American Methodist Pastor on her third mission in Guatemala, helping to build a Sunday school. She was a truly fascinating woman and someone we would never have met under normal circumstances. Talking of people, we are now regularly bumping into a number of different travellers following similar routes to ourselves. Among them a German girl called Sarah who crossed the border with us and a group of three Aussies, an English girl and their Guatemalan tour guide. It's a strange (but comforting) feeling when you're in the middle of a country as remote as Guatemala and you round a corner to be met by a familiar face.

Lake Atitlan is unquestionably one of the most incredible and beautiful places either of us have ever seen. It is surrounded by three volcanoes (one active and constantly "steaming") and is itself a huge collapsed volcanic cone. We took a boat trip over to San Pedro which is basically full of bong smoking hippies who forgot to go home. We liked it, but lack the mandatory dreadlocks and wispy beards to actually stay the night. Antigua tomorrow...

Xela, Guatemala

We made it to Guatemala. The border crossing was a bit chaotic, and one of the girls on the shuttle bus was given Dan´s passport back after it had been stamped at the Guatemalan immigration, but luckily she noticed that the photo did not resemble her in anyway (even if the border guard didn´t notice!!).

The change from Mexico to Guatemala was immediately evident. The roads are less well maintained and the country is poorer, but the scenery is more dramatic and it was quite a stunning drive to Xela, we climbed high up into the mountains and passed streams where the locals were washing their clothes.

We like Xela, it is friendly and relaxed, although fairly polluted. And a lot of the older women here still wear the traditional dress. It is a firm favourite with travellers, not because of its beauty (it is not a beautiful town) but because the people are friendly and it is easy to be anonymous - we have not been approached once to be hassled to buy something that we really don´t want.

Although Xela is a nice place to be there is not that much to do other than attend Spanish classes, and we just don´t have the time to do that now. So we are heading to Lago d´Atitlan this afternoon, which is reputed to be stunningly beautiful.

Chamula & Zinacantan

We took a day trip to the villages of Chamula and Zinacantan, in the mountains just north of San Cristobal. In Chamula taking photographs of people is not allowed as the Mayans believe that you are trying to steal their soul and there is a very real danger of a lynching if you break the rules! The church at Chamula was amazing. It was lit by thousands of candles and the floor was lined with pine needles. Our guide told us about how chickens were sacrificed by shamans to cure illness, but we didn´t expect to see them actually wringing the necks of chickens in the church!!! The guide was excellent and told us all about the history of Mesoamerica and the Mayan culture, which is very much still alive in Chiapas. In Chemula, 50% of the population only speak the local language and therefore cannot really exist outside of their town or village. Nearly all of the women and most of the men still wear traditional dress (which identifies which group they belong to), practise traditional crafts and live in mud or clay houses. All in all it was a fascinating day out and worth every penny.

Tomorrow we´re heading to Quetzeltenango (in Guatemala), which is fortunately also known as Xela (Shay-la). It is possible (and cheapest) to get a public bus to the border town, taxi across the border and then public bus in Guatemala but as it was nearly 50% cheaper than the lonely planet suggested it would be, we decided to book a private shuttle bus to take us all the way.

San Cristobal Pics

San Cristobal de las Casas

We arrived in San Cristobal after a 12 hour overnight bus journey, which was ok. It was rather like being on a long haul flight with constant turbulence, but we managed to sleep ok. San Cristobal is a quaint, colonial style town surrounded by mountains and much of the population is indigenous. It´s the kind of place you can easily spend 2 or 3 days just wandering round the cobbled streets and through the markets. Photos coming later...

Zipolite Pics

Zipolite has an interesting recent history. It became popular as a hangout for American hippies in the 60s and 70s, but acquired a reputation for crime in later years (the open use of drugs inevitably attracted unsavoury types). Ten years ago it was not safe to walk along the beach at night for fear of being mugged or worse. Then, a few years ago, local business owners clubbed together to pay a group of vigilantes to "clean up" the beach. Nightly patrols by men armed with sticks soon chased away the trouble makers and Zipolite became the safe, inexpensive, chilled out travellers beach that it is today. Many of the businesses were destroyed by a big fire a few years later, but most are now rebuilt and up and running again. Pretty much anything goes here - drugs, nudity - there´s no police presence and no need for one.

We´re staying in a place right on the beach and have a balcony from which, at high tide, you could almost jump into the sea. The perpetually stoned American owner, Daniel, is a really friendly and generous guy, especially considering it´s the low season and we´re paying (almost literally) peanuts for one of his best rooms.

We visited the turtle "sanctuary" at Mazunte beach yesterday. Seeing the turtles was interesting and the work they do means more turtles survive than would naturally. However I found the experience saddening (in the same way that staring at caged animals in English zoos can be a bit sad). It´s a shame they don´t get government funding, as then maybe the adult turtles, which are intelligent, surprisingly graceful animals and steeped in the art of survival, would not have to swim backwards and forwards in small tanks to raise the tourist dollars.

Anywho, we´re off to San Cristobal tonight on a night bus (12-14 hours in the estimate), just when we were getting used to the beach lifestyle too.....should be cooler in the mountains though, which is definitely a welcome change.

Puerto Escondido Pics

Still in Zipolite

We are still here, enjoying the hot sun and the sea. Our hopes that Dan´s tummy was improving seem to have been dashed and we had to pay another visit to see a doctor (at least he said he was a doctor) and Dan is now trying some other antibiotics. I really hope for his sake that these work as he is having a bit of a bad time with it.... he can´t drink!

We are heading to San Cristobal de las Casas tomorrow where hopefully the weather will be a bit cooler, and the internet will be faster so we can post some photos.

We have heard lots of good things about Guatemala, so we are really looking forward to going there after we leave San Cristobal, we hope that it will be great. Time seems to be marching on so we think we might have to fly back to Mexico City when we leave Belize.

Zipolite

We finally made it to Zipolite after three nights in Puerto Escondido. Fingers crossed, my period of "illness" is now over (thanks to a friendly pharmacist and some expensive tablets). Computer is waaaaaaay too slow for photos.

Acapulco Cliff Divers

Puerto Escondido

Finally bit the bullet, dosed up on the immodium and took the 7 hour bus trip (which, typically, ended up being 8.5 hours) to Puerto Escondido. Just arrived, but it looks good - a surfer´s beach and home to the famous (?) Mexican Pipeline.

Spent last night back in Acapulco and went to the see the clavadistas (cliff divers) which was really cool (got some great photos which we´ll post asap).

Pie de la Cuesta Pics

Pie de la Cuesta

No photos today - computer´s not up to it. Decided to head 30 minutes up the coast from Acapulco to a place called Pie de la Cuesta for some R&R on the beach. Staying in a really nice place - http://www.lavillanirvana.com/. It´s a hard life...

And another thing...

I´ve been sh*t on twice by birds! Emma says it´s lucky, but how can it be?!?! It´s victimisation....

Acapulco

Hola from Acapulco! We took Phil Collin´s advice and have gone loco. Lonely Planet describes Acapulco as "the grittiest of the central pacific coast resorts" and they´re not far wrong. We´re staying in the old town, away from the high rises and american tour groups (although they do occasionally venture down for a slice of cultural pie). The journey from Taxco was our first proper Mexican bus ride and proved to be an interesting 5 hours. Buses are big, comfy, modern, air conditioned and relatively cheap. However, the Mexican driving style and the poorly maintained, twisty roads ruin what could be a pleasant experience. Buses are the fastest things on the road, over taking even the cars. Passing vehicles on the outside of a blind bend at high speed is more sport than necessity but is accepted as normal by passengers and driver alike. I favour the "bury your head in the sand" technique, opting for eye mask and MP3 player, whereas Emma prefers the self-torture that is looking out of the window.

I sit here now with sore throat, cough, cold and an aching knee. This morning I was re-introduced to last nights seafood paella (which was nice at the time) rather more quickly (and violently) than I had hoped. All in all though, the people are mostly really friendly and more than happy to help you without expecting anything in return, and the beers are only 75p a pop so everythings fine ;o)


Sunrise over Acapulco bay

View of the bay from the Forte on the hill

Taxco

Parroquia de Santa Prisca. A church, basically.

Cervezas y Nachos con Salsa.

View from our room. Daily hail/rain storm - I guess that´s why they call if the "Off Season".

Typical Taxco street.

Mayan Ruins at Teotihuacan

Pyramide Del sol (Pyramid of the Sun). The third largest pyramid in the world (and we climbed it!)













Pyramide de la Luna (Pyramid of the Moon) as seen from the top of the Pyramid of the Sun.














"Avenue of the Dead"

Cactus ;o)